The Sunga dynasty, which emerged after the Mauryan Empire, marked a significant refinement in Indian jewellery design and craftsmanship. This period saw an evolution in artistic expression, with a greater emphasis on intricate designs and the use of luxurious materials. Gold became the predominant metal for crafting jewellery, often embellished with precious stones such as corals, rubies, sapphires, agates, and crystals. Pearls and various types of beads, including those made from glass, were also widely utilized, showcasing the diversity and richness of the era's adornments.
Jewellery during
the Sunga period was not limited to one gender; both men and women adorned
themselves with similar pieces. Common items included earrings, necklaces,
armlets, bracelets, and embroidered belts, reflecting a shared appreciation for
beauty and status. Among the most notable pieces from this period is a single
earring discovered at Taxila, dated to the second century BC. This earring
exhibits similarities to Graeco-Roman and Etruscan styles, highlighting the
cross-cultural exchanges that influenced Indian art and jewellery.
Earrings, known as Karnika, were particularly varied,
featuring three distinct types: the simple Kundala, a circular disc earring
called Dehri, and the flower-shaped Karnaphul. Necklaces were categorized into
two types: the Kantha, a broad, flat necklace often made of gold and inlaid
with precious stones, and the lambanam, a longer, multi-stranded piece that
typically included amulets believed to ward off evil.
Armlets, or Bajuband, were crafted from gold and
sometimes silver, often adorned with precious stones. These pieces were worn on
the upper arm, further exemplifying the intricate artistry and cultural
significance of jewellery in Sunga society. This period not only reflects a
rich tradition
of craftsmanship but also embodies the cultural values and aesthetic
sensibilities of ancient India.